Greening the Fashion Industry
5 Questions with…
Erin Barajas, Manufacturing Editor at California Apparel News
There has been a lot of discussion surrounding this month’s announcement that eco-friendly retailer Nau would be closing its doors. This got us thinking here at Vert, where the sustainable, green trend we have been seeing lately in the apparel industry is heading. If a team of all-star executives with a much buzzed-about innovative, eco-friendly concept was unsuccessful, what does this say about the future of eco-fashion? Companies seem to want to be part of the Green Rush, but it is still unclear how they will balance profit and sustainability. If you build it, will the consumers come? What does it mean to be green in the apparel industry and how do existing green lines hold up to these standards?
For our first installment of our 5 questions series, we spoke with Erin Barajas, Manufacturing Editor at California Apparel News, to gain some background info on “green” in fashion and see where the trend might be headed.
1) What does it mean to be ‘green’ in the apparel industry today?
In fashion “green” can mean just about anything. There is no official standard by which being “green” is judged. So, it can mean a T-shirt was made using organic cotton, but then later washed in a harsh chemical to make it super soft. Sometimes manufacturers tag garments as “green” if they used a low-energy or eco-conscious process to wash or produce them. “Green” is sometimes also used to describe garments that benefit the environment through their sale – if a certain portion of their proceeds are donated to environmental charities, for example. “Green” can also mean a garment is made from sustainable materials. It’s a very broad term and there is a movement in the apparel industry to clearly define what qualifies as green.
2) Are you seeing an increasing trend in “green” or “sustainable” clothing lines?
There is definitely a move to incorporate “green” and “sustainable” components among apparel brands across the board – from kids apparel to designer goods. Similarly, there seems to be more and more emerging brands that label themselves as “green” and strive to produce clothes with as little environmental impact. These brands tend to be more niche and contemporary – meaning they target a pretty specific demographic, sell at more exclusive retailers and come with a pretty hefty price tag. It’s these newer, smaller, up-and-coming brands that are agile enough to push the envelope and dedicate themselves to the eco cause.
3) How hard is it for an apparel company to be “green”?
It is a really complicated issue. Making apparel isn’t the most eco-friendly thing, but there are many opportunities in the production process to reduce our impact on the environment. These aren’t always easy, but they can make a difference. Sourcing fabric is the first step to being eco-friendly. There are organic fabric options – but they aren’t always the type designers want to use- so that means brands with eco-friendly aspirations have to find other “green” routes. Sometimes that can lead to the creation of new fabrics, which benefit the entire industry. There are also new washing and dyeing techniques that reduce the amount of chemicals and water used in those processes. Other brands are opting to produce locally in order to reduce their shipping needs. Some are going so far as to build vertically-integrated facilities that use solar power to run their machinery. Any little bit helps, but it can be challenging for brands to navigate their way around the “green” issue.
4) Who are some green pioneers?
One designer that stands out is Linda Loudermilk – a Los Angeles-based designer who not only uses eco-friendly fabrics but helps develop new high-end “green” fabrics. On the mass market level, Target and Rogan, a high-end eco-conscious brand, have collaborated on an environmentally-friendly collection that is getting much attention – not just for the fashion-forward nature of the designs but because of its decidedly “green” focus. Mass market retailers aren’t really known for their dedication to the environment, so this collaboration feels like a real first.
Linda Loudermilk Designs hit the runway- photo from lasplash.com
5) Where do you see this trend going? Is there a future for green and sustainability in fashion?
I do see the “green” trend growing in the fashion industry, but I think we’ve reached a point where as an industry we have to define the term much more clearly. Consumers are much more savvy and the “green” term can’t just be a marketing tool. Brands are going to have to back their “green” labels with evidence or more clearly describe their eco efforts.
This entry was posted on Thursday, May 22nd, 2008 at 7:33 pm and is filed under 5 Q\'s of the month. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.
May 23rd, 2008 at 1:57 am
Great topic! Fashion is such a unique industry with usually high price points, great margins, but relatively much lower sales volume in comparison to mass merchandisers.
Nau was a company that decided that controlling their distribution as a means to get closer to customers and increase margins, was an excellent strategy to grow and be profitable, while sticking to their ethics.
With high price points, simply using sustainable materials and having a great company culture is not enough. The merchandise (as a cumulative whole) has to be fashionable and competitive in terms of COGS (cost of goods sold), and end-user price. If this is true, and there is sufficient shopper demand, sustainable and ‘green’ clothing has a chance.
May 24th, 2008 at 2:03 am
Mario, I think you hit on a good point. Fashion has to be be fashionable at the end of the day. We keep hearing more and more reports about the gap between what consumers report as being important to them (the environment, social responsibility, etc.) and where they actually put their money. Many consumers are not ready to make huge sacrifices, particularly when it comes to fashion. A “green” dress is not as obvious as a Prius or a canvas shopping bag so it can’t sell just on green merit alone.